Paris in the Fall by Disneyrollergirl

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DisneyRollerGirl

Louis Vuitton AW11Whoa, I’m not sure what was in the Perrier at Paris Fashion Week but banana sleeves, exaggerated shoulders and fetish-chic were only half the story. The biggest news keeping the front row’s eyes pinned to their Blackberrys was that of the latest comings and goings on fashion’s merry-go-round.

John Galliano’s now-famous alcohol-fuelled rant (“you have low-end boots! Your eyebrows are ugly!” were his tamest remarks) resulted in an instant suspension by Dior which was then followed inevitably by a game of who’s in, who’s out.

It’s still unconfirmed by Dior, but names in the hat included Alber Elbaz, Haider Ackermann and even ex-Dior Homme designer Hedi Slimane. Well-placed insiders suggest that Riccardo Tisci from Givenchy is poised to take over. Meanwhile, what on earth has happened to Balmain’s Christophe Decarnin? This was (and still is) the question many were pondering when Decarnin failed to show up at his own show. Insiders report that he has been battling depression, leaving his team and stylist to complete the collection under his directive.

Elsewhere, both Hannah MacGibbon at Chloé and Stefano Pilati at Yves Saint Laurent have been plagued by rumours of their ousting at their respective brands, while Pringle of Scotland’s creative director Clare Waight Keller, announced her resignation for ‘personal reasons’. Who will replace her and where will she go next? Or will the seven-months pregnant designer take a Phoebe Philo-style sabbatical?

In amongst all the speculation, there was some excitement left for the actual collections. Newly installed at Hermes, Christophe Lemaire presented a debut collection of elongated 30s-meets-70s silhouettes in a palette of spiced-up neutrals. Louis Vuitton’s fetish-flavoured collection (pictured) caused quite a commotion, juxtaposing huge, covered-up furry coats and dresses with see-through layers and bondage elements – plus Kate Moss smoking a fag. Finally, the focus for next season will be firmly on sleeves and shoulders. Stella McCartney prescribed voluminous banana-shaped sleeves, Miu Miu offered boxy, 40s-style shoulders and almost everyone else championed the giant, fur sleeve. One thing’s certain; come next season, the fashion landscape will be very different to what it is now.

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23rd March, 2011  4:20 pm | Posted by: |Disneyrollergirl | No Comments »

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